Please apply the wax correctly to the fabric when heating/curing- more info below. We have found an iron on a low setting to be the best application, but please
use with caution. Can also be used in ‘hot’ direct sun to melt and cure. Don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any trouble with your waterproofing bar or any
This product is NOT a flammable liquid, so is safe to use and to get on hands. Plus an excellent choice for those that suffer from severe asthma or skin
disorders. There are no toxic fumes/chemical particles that can be inhaled or ingested.
We devised the idea of a bar as if you attempted to melt down pure natural waxes, by the time it hit your paint brush it would have hardened, before even
getting to the cover. We do not condone melting and then thinning with turpentine as turpentine is a highly flammable liquid with acute oral toxicity
(as specified in its data sheet), it is also highly combustible- PLEASE do not use turpentine on your animal covers. If you wish to thin our bars down, please use
Our beeswax heavy duty water repellent and protecting wax is made from the highest quality Beeswax and blend of waxes. A great option for heavy duty
waterproofing projects like outdoor equipment, float and tent awnings, tent seams, jackets or pants, bike wear, back packs, hats, synthetic and canvas horse
covers, horse saddle blankets, trekking boots, jeans, canvas shoes, fishing & hunting gear, rucksacks, tents and hiking boots. Any surface that requires a heavy
duty waterproofing surface. Easy to use. Can be used in hard to reach seams and stitching. For horse covers, does both synthetic and canvas. Wax needs to be
heated and cured into fabric for high-quality results.
You can also just use one bar and waterproof the top seams and all the stitching (to protect
stitching) where the water really hits in a heavy rain downpour if you want more breath-ability in heavier horse covers.
We recommend allowing up to 2 bars per 5ft cover, but one may be sufficient.
1. First, ensure that the product you are applying this to is clean and dry. Use a cloth to hold the bar and rub back and forth over the surface, which creates the
friction needed to loosen the wax.
2. Ensure the wax has been SPREAD EVENLY over the surface.
3. HEAT the wax into the fabric using either:
• A heat gun
• A hair dryer on a HIGH heat setting (for smaller garments).
• An iron set to a LOW SYNTHETIC setting.
4. If applying to a large surface area such as a horse cover, for the best results apply a second coating of the wax bar straight after you have heated thoroughly
the first application.
5. If the look of the wax is white and it is sticky to touch it has not been cured into the fabric. So it won’t be waterproof. So re-apply heat using the above
6. Leave overnight to dry and cure.
NOTE: To wash the wax out of your fabric, set the wash temperature to 60 degrees heat and wash twice.
For larger clothes or in-between covers, you could place garments into tied up large black plastic rubbish bags. Then place into the dryer for 10min increments.
It’s recommended that you re-apply wax every year or second year. Waxing fabric, will darken the colour of a fabric and give it a light shine. As a general rule of
thumb, plan on using more wax to treat un-waxed or oiled fabrics. Waxed fabrics are already saturated with wax, so will not absorb as much as an untreated
fabric. Our Bee Kind wax bars are excellent for one-sided waxing because it creates a seal on the top layer of the fabric. Great for quickly re-proofing factory
waxed and oiled garments like oilskins. Our wax is melted down when applied, thus permeating deeper into the fabric and yielding a more factory-waxed
appearance. This is ideal for multi-layered coats and jackets, or for re-proofing factory-oiled fabrics.
Note for Horse Covers: Not ideal for thin cotton white cover sheets – It will attract soil on the sheet when the horse rolls, due to the
nature of the beeswax in the wax bar as it’s a waxy type substance, unless wax is melted in correctly and completely dried before use.